Traveling the world and sharing its music

Hey Bear!!!


One of many bear encounters in Alaska

The scenery in Kachemak Bay State Park was amazing, but when it came to wildlife, the only thing I had to worry about was a charging Spruce Grouse protecting her chicks. I had 6 miles to go and 3 hours to make my water taxi. Depending on my last climb ahead and the rest of the trail, I would barely make my rendezvous. Fortunately, the path I was on was below the thick sub-alpine zone. It was well marked on each side with plenty of overturned small boulders....strange. Why would anyone spend the effort to turn up all of these rocks that mark the trail? They must weight about 100 lbs each.

Only half a mile to the last climb. It felt good to dig deep and push my pace through the soreness. Suddenly, two small flashes of black each about the size of a dog dart to the right about 100 feet ahead of me, then a big head pops up. Awwwwwww how cute, a teddy bear. It's amazing how much they look like a stuffed animal. 

Not exactly what I was hoping for when I said I wanted to finally see some wildlife today. She advances cautiously, but with a sense that something may be threatening her cubs. Ummm... make noise... play dead.... stand confidently... RUN... no, do not run... back up.... yes, back up quietly. Good, made it past the panic stage and about 300 feet away. 

Now what? it was 15 miles back the way I came, and it was already early afternoon. There was no way I could make it to my original water taxi drop off.  Well, that means trying to get them to move.

Who ever said that bears had good hearing and bad eyesight, obviously forgot to tell this one. I shouted, whistled, and sang....

hey bear, hey bear why don't you say goodbye.
hey bear, hey bear off you go to shanghai


OK, no mother bear would keep her cubs in the area with my horrible intonation and lyrics.  After about 15 minutes, I walked forward ringing my bear's bell, realizing that it's probably one of the most useless things in the world when encountering a bear.

ding.............ding..............ding.........ding......ding....ding..ding.dingdingdingdingding

Funny how the bell ringing gets faster, the closer I get. As soon as I round that corner, that cute head pops up again. Reminds me of Scooby doo looking out of his hiding space only to see the bear. Ruh, Roh!

Time to back up and try the trail again and again and again for over an hour. Now it's a problem.  There's no way I can make my water taxi.


I don't have a radio, but I do have my cell phone.  It's worth a try, right?  Power up and a signal.  I call the water taxi company and try to explain my situation.

"Oh, you're where?"

I started my two day trek by being dropped of by water taxi at near Humpy's Creek trail head.  I slogged up the trail to the plateau and stayed the night at Emerald Lake. I woke up early and headed to see Grewingk Glacier and was going to head down to the tram and out at Glacier Split trail head.  Right now, I was stuck right before the tram crossing Grewingk Creek.

Grewingk Glacier...the dirty sections are due to melting
"The valley just before the tram?  Oh...yeah.  We know about that bear and her cubs."  She's there all the time.

And you didn't think to tell me when I pointed out my route and ask if there were any problems?


"How about going around?"



I tried that I explained.  The valley I was in was a scene of a fire a while ago.  Between the dead wood and brush, I could make it about 50 feet in 5 minutes.  I was willing to try until I spotted Mom again and realized that if I needed retreat quickly, I wasn't going to be able to make it to safety before she reached me.

"Well, what ever you do, don't try to cut across the creek.  It's a lot colder and faster than it looks and a few folks tried it earlier this year and didn't make it out." 


Again....you might have mentioned something when I left.  Too bad the rolling of my eyes couldn't be seen over the phone.

"How about I wait a while and see if the bear moves," I suggested.

"OK.  Don't worry, we won't strand you."

Finally, less hindsight and more foresight. 


More dorky chants.


Bear, bear, why are you here
Bear, bear you should go over there

Another hour of trying.

Finally, I peer around the trail and nothing.  I stand there for a good 10 minutes trying to detect some movement or sound.  Silence other than my pounding pulse.   I walk quickly forward and feel bit of relief once I start gaining some elevation.  Once I make it to the ridge, I call. 


"We have a group coming off of Sadie Trailhead around 4PM.  Do you think you can make it?"

An hour to go three miles.  I can try.  I was more than willing to jog with heavy boots and a light pack in order to get some more distance between my first Alaskan Bear sighting. 

I reach the trail down to the water and it's already four.  No way I can make it and now I don't have a cell phone signal.  Well, they know I'm coming, so they'll wait, right?

I finally see the stairs down to the water and a waiting boat.  As some of my friends know, bears have always been one of my favorite animals.  However, my close encounter made me recognize the physical and spiritual power they possess.

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Wanderlust by Robert Service

The Wanderlust has lured me to the seven lonely seas,
Has dumped me on the tailing-piles of dearth;
The Wanderlust has haled me from the morris chairs of ease,
Has hurled me to the ends of all the earth.
How bitterly I've cursed it, oh, the Painted Desert knows,
The wraithlike heights that hug the pallid plain,
The all-but-fluid silence, -- yet the longing grows and grows,
And I've got to glut the Wanderlust again.

Soldier, sailor, in what a plight I've been!
Tinker, tailor, oh what a sight I've seen!
And I'm hitting the trail in the morning, boys,
And you won't see my heels for dust;
For it's "all day" with you
When you answer the cue
Of the Wan-der-lust.

The Wanderlust has got me . . . by the belly-aching fire,
By the fever and the freezing and the pain;
By the darkness that just drowns you, by the wail of home desire,
I've tried to break the spell of it -- in vain.
Life might have been a feast for me, now there are only crumbs;
In rags and tatters, beggar-wise I sit;
Yet there's no rest or peace for me, imperious it drums,
The Wanderlust, and I must follow it.

Highway, by-way, many a mile I've done;
Rare way, fair way, many a height I've won;
But I'm pulling my freight in the morning, boys,
And it's over the hills or bust;
For there's never a cure
When you list to the lure
Of the Wan-der-lust.

The Wanderlust has taught me . . . it has whispered to my heart
Things all you stay-at-homes will never know.
The white man and the savage are but three short days apart,
Three days of cursing, crawling, doubt and woe.
Then it's down to chewing muclucs, to the water you can eat,
To fish you bolt with nose held in your hand.
When you get right down to cases, it's King's Grub that rules the races,
And the Wanderlust will help you understand.

Haunting, taunting, that is the spell of it;
Mocking, baulking, that is the hell of it;
But I'll shoulder my pack in the morning, boys,
And I'm going because I must;
For it's so-long to all
When you answer the call
Of the Wan-der-lust.

The Wanderlust has blest me . . . in a ragged blanket curled,
I've watched the gulf of Heaven foam with stars;
I've walked with eyes wide open to the wonder of the world,
I've seen God's flood of glory burst its bars.
I've seen the gold a-blinding in the riffles of the sky,
Till I fancied me a bloated plutocrat;
But I'm freedom's happy bond-slave, and I will be till I die,
And I've got to thank the Wanderlust for that.

Wild heart, child heart, all of the world your home.
Glad heart, mad heart, what can you do but roam?
Oh, I'll beat it once more in the morning, boys,
With a pinch of tea and a crust;
For you cannot deny
When you hark to the cry
Of the Wan-der-lust.

The Wanderlust will claim me at the finish for its own.
I'll turn my back on men and face the Pole.
Beyond the Arctic outposts I will venture all alone;
Some Never-never Land will be my goal.
Thank God! there's none will miss me, for I've been a bird of flight;
And in my moccasins I'll take my call;
For the Wanderlust has ruled me,
And the Wanderlust has schooled me,
And I'm ready for the darkest trail of all.

Grim land, dim land, oh, how the vastness calls!
Far land, star land, oh, how the stillness falls!
For you never can tell if it's heaven or hell,
And I'm taking the trail on trust;
But I haven't a doubt
That my soul will leap out
On its Wan-der-lust.

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